Journey To Kars With The Eastern Express: Train, Route And Visit Schedule

The Eastern Express is a TCDD train operating on the railway line connecting Ankara and Kars, spanning approximately 1,310 kilometers. The journey typically takes between 24 and 26 hours; this duration may vary depending on the season and potential delays. As the train traverses central and eastern Turkey, it offers passengers short stops in cities such as Sivas, Erzincan, and Erzurum. In recent years, this journey has gained particular attention on social media, especially during winter months; the primary reason for this interest is the scenery viewed from the window of the train traveling through snow. However, it is necessary to set realistic expectations before boarding the Eastern Express.

A Realistic Expectation About the Train

The Eastern Express is not a train specifically designed for tourism; it is an ordinary intercity passenger train. Carriages are offered in two main categories: sleeper (kuşetli) and seated (pulman). Sleeper carriages feature compartments for 4 or 6 people, with bunk beds available in each compartment. Bedding and pillows are provided by TCDD. Seated pulman seats are not comfortable for long periods during night travel; if you plan to spend the night on the train, choosing a sleeper carriage is a preferable option. A dining car is available on most trips, but the menu is limited; bringing snacks for the long journey is advisable. Do not expect Wi-Fi connectivity or wide-band coverage; once the train passes east of Erzincan, the signal is largely lost.

Stops Along the Route: What to See and Skip

There are four prominent stops along the Eastern Express route: Sivas, Erzincan, Erzurum, and Kars. In Sivas, the stop usually occurs early in the morning; the station exit could serve as a base point for visiting the Divriği Great Mosque and Hospital, but if your waiting time is short, making this trip is not practical. In Erzincan, the route runs parallel to the Euphrates Basin; valley views become prominent in this section. The stop in Erzurum lasts about 20-30 minutes; there may be time for coffee or soup near the station. Erzurum can also be considered as an independent destination for a day trip or overnight stay; the Çifte Minareli Medrese and Erzurum Castle are within walking distance of the city center.

What to Do in Kars: City Center and Ani

Kars stands out from other eastern cities with its unique architectural fabric. Stone buildings constructed during the Russian occupation period, wide street grids, and the old castle surroundings give the city a distinct atmosphere. A bird's-eye view of the city is possible from Kars Castle; the uphill climb takes about 15 minutes. The Kars Museum covers the region's history on a timeline extending from the Urartu period to the Republic. Kars is also known for gruyère cheese produced in Boğatepe village, which is located approximately 20 kilometers from the city center. It would be a significant omission to visit Kars without stopping at Ani: this medieval city, listed on the UNESCO World Heritage Tentative List, is located about 42 kilometers from the Turkey-Armenia border. Reaching Ani requires a taxi or private vehicle; public transport options are virtually non-existent.

Ani Ruins: Visiting Hours and Points to Note

Ani was the capital of the Armenian Bagratuni Kingdom in the 10th and 11th centuries; its population at that time is estimated to have exceeded 100,000. Today, the area welcoming visitors functions as an open-air museum and is visited via ticketed entry. Notable structures on site include the Fethiye Mosque (an old church converted into a mosque), the Cathedral, Menuçehr Mosque, and Arslanlı Gate. One can walk to the edge of the Arpaçay Valley to the south of the area; reaching the rocky viewpoint overlooking the valley requires a 10-15 minute walk. Opening hours vary by season, so current times should be confirmed before visiting. In winter, the ground can be slippery; sturdy-soled shoes are recommended. There are minimal sales points and seating areas in Ani; bringing water and snacks is advisable.

Best Season: Winter or Summer?

Kars is one of the coldest cities in Turkey; temperatures in winter can drop below -20°C, and the snow cover can remain permanent from November to March. The Eastern Express winter journey offers the most visually striking experience due to snowy plateau and mountain landscapes; consequently, most train preferences concentrate in the December-February period. On the other hand, if you wish to explore Ani and the surroundings of Kars comfortably, June to September is more suitable; roads are open, and site visits are comfortable. Spring and autumn offer a cooler and less crowded alternative; snow remnants may still exist in April. Make your decision based on what you want to see: winter is logical for the train journey's scenery, while summer is better for Ani and the plateaus.

Practical Planning: Duration, Transport, and Key Points

If you allocate one day for the Ankara-Kars train journey, it is recommended to spend at least two full days in Kars: one day for the city center and Kars Castle, and one day for Ani. For Ani, it is advisable to leave early in the morning; after noon, the light falls directly from the south, making morning hours more advantageous for photography. Besides the train, there is also a flight option from Kars Harakani Airport for reaching Kars; regular flights are available from Istanbul and Ankara. An air-train combination is also possible: train outbound and flight return, or vice versa. Taxi and minibus transport are available in central Kars; arranging a taxi in advance for Ani prevents time loss. For accommodation, boutique guesthouses and mid-sized hotels are available in the city center; making reservations in advance during peak seasons is advisable. Train tickets are sold through TCDD's official channels; especially during the winter season, tickets sell out early. domestic tour options, you can also look at programs covering Kars.

• The train journey takes approximately 24-26 hours; choosing a sleeper carriage is recommended.
• For a visit to Ani, a private vehicle or taxi round-trip from Kars is required.
• In winter, the ground at Ani can be slippery; sturdy-soled shoes are mandatory.
• ATM and market access are possible in central Kars; there are no sales points in the Ani vicinity.
• Only 20-30 minutes are available during the Erzurum stop; a separate day must be planned for a city tour.
• Layered clothing (including thermal underwear) is essential for winter; Kars cold is biting.

What to Consider When Deciding

The Eastern Express journey is less of a quick vacation and more of a slow discovery experience. If you do not find the 24-hour train journey meaningless, this route shows you one of the least visited geographies of Turkey from the carriage window while also offering Kars, a remote city. The medieval ruins of Ani, the stone texture of Kars, and the eastern plateau landscapes form a complementary whole. Clarify your travel season, accommodation, and transport for Ani in advance; setting off without doing so can lead to disruptions, especially during the winter season. If you are considering staying in cities along the route, Erzurum is also worth an independent overnight stay.